The visit to Bandipur was in the discussion for some time and never happened. This time it happened in place of a canceled trip to Kabini. Me, Balan and Nishanth booked return train ticket to Mysore. We all met at the railway station and started the journey on a friday midnight. A pre-booked BIT cab was waiting for us at the Mysore station. We planned to reach Bandipur National Park for the first safari. It took around 2 Hrs to reach the ticket counter around 06 00 Hrs. Even though the board displayed at the counter says the safari starts at 06 30 we had to wait till 07 30.
By this time many private safari vehicles started entering the park. These are arranged by the numerous resorts that mushroomed around the national park. We came to know that they charge a premium. Rs 20,000 for one night and two days stay on week ends, for a much comfortable, longer and closer wildlife experience. This is much higher than Rs 90 per head charged by the local forest department,. It became too obvious that, the original idea of allowing common people to see wildlife to create awareness is sidelined. The group which actually get benefited are the rich holiday makers and the private wildlife resort industry. We really wondered what percentage of their profit flows back into the National Park and thus for conservation.
The safari started around 07 00. Unfortunately we could not make it to the front row of the safari van, which later proved costly. We started a bumpy ride through a narrow trail into the forest. For a while we did not see anything moving. The undergrowth was taken over by the invasive Lantana plant. We stopped for sometime when a small group of spotted deer appeared. I wouldn't have clicked unless I noticed it's beautiful fur in morning breeze.
The van started again and moved quite fast for a wildlife safari in a national park. I some how felt that we would not be seeing any big mammals in this safari. The driver was busy, the co-passengers were noisy and the forest seemed so unhealthy that it does not support a good number of prey. This thought was just opposite of what I felt when we were travelling through Nagarhole, the neighbouring National park. Van stopped briefly as all the passengers moved to grab a view through the left window. I saw a Grey Junglefowl but could not take a decent picture. Somebody yelled it's just a cock and the driver stepped on the accelerator. In Bandipur, birds are not considered as wildlife.
We returned to the ticket counter and expressed our disappointment and asked whether any feed back form available. We got into our rented car and started off to Gudalur. A few minutes later Balan saw an Eagle perched on a concrete pipe near a small lake. We clicked numerous shot in an effort to erase the disappointment of the safari.
We had already booked a "three bed" room at Jungle Home. It was not difficult to find the place. As soon as we reached there, we realised it has only a distant resemblance to what it advertise in the website. The stay was nothing but mediocre and the quantity of food was never enough. There are a few hotels on the main road, just 5 minutes walk away. Visited one of these hotels and had a heavy breakfast. After coming back we decided to explore through the forest fringes. We found a small clearing to settle down. It provided us with a good photo opportunity to shoot a number of birds which are increasingly rare outside protected areas.
After lunch we went to Mudumalai Wildlife sanctuary. Our original plan was to have 20 minutes elephant safari. When we queried to the lady at the ticketing counter, she informed us that the tickets are issued only at Ooty, a hill station 35km away. We then met a guy who was conducting paid trekking. He could not hide his laughter when we mentioned the elephant safari. He said it's nothing more than a joy ride around some wooded area. We are saved. Next programme was to go for the van safari. This time we decided to get into the front row but then ticket was issued with seat number printed on it. Cameras were charged for Rs 25 and we assumed it may guarantee a window seat. As per the ticket, Nishanth ended up in the middle seat of the crammed last row with no chance of even seeing the outside world. It all appeared as a ridiculous drama for us. The curse of Nishanth!! the so called wildlife safari turned out to be a waste of time.
While coming back to the room we decided to go for the night safari arranged by Jungle Home through the "fringes" of the forest. Charge was Rs1000 per Jeep. We started after our dinner and came to know that this safari is nothing but a drive through the main road that connects Mysore and Ooty, the same road we took to reach Jungle Home. This is one stuff you could do yourself if you have your own car. I mean car, as you never leave the road!!. I had a good sleep in the jeep. On the way back, we saw an Indian Gaur grazing beneath a small bridge. Then on the main road met an elephant herd crossing the road with two calves. The driver of our jeep stopped while the one who followed us overtook us and in an apparent attempt to impress the pretty woman tourist on his side seat, brought the vehicle uncomfortably close to the herd. The mother bend down in a defensive posture and made a loud cry. We all shocked and decided to stop the demand for such reckless and irresponsible safaris.
Disappointed, we cut short the tour, cancelled the late evening train tickets and came back in Bangalore afternoon with a sad feeling of being a part of that unpleasant night safari.
Map is here
